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Hiking Pu'u Wa'awa'a Cinder Cone State Park

Writer's picture: Allison GreenAllison Green

Updated: Sep 26, 2020

We didn't know they filmed LOTR on the Big Island.



For the first three months in Hawaii, the most exciting thing we were able to do was go to the beach. I love the beach! Don't get me wrong. But it is also nice to explore what the land has to offer. And this hike did exactly that.


When we first looked up this hike online it was noted to be a challenging 7 mile hike with an elevation gain of about 1752 feet. At the time that sounded perfectly endearing, but we definitely thought about turning back more than once. Pu'u Wa'awa'a in Hawaiian translates to "many-furrowed hill," and is said to be over 100,000 years old according to website, Big Island Hikes. This hill was said to have breathtaking views of the Kona Coast, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualālai.


We arrived at the turn off on HI-190 to find a closed metal gate blocking our entrance. At first, we thought it was another park closed due to the pandemic. But thankfully we didn't turn around. We decided to get closer and read the gate, that happened to open with motion sensor. Filled with relief, we drove on into the parking area. We weren't sure if anyone else would be there but sure enough there were about four other cars.


After reapplying a quick coat of sunscreen, we were on our way. We packed a backpack with sandwiches and water so we would be ready to stay for a while. I carried my own bottle in my Herschel fanny pack and Will carried his in the backpack.


If we made one mistake when packing it was that we didn't bring enough water. Each of us brought our 17 ounce refillable bottles and nothing more. This was not a smart move. About a mile in we knew we should have brought more water. Nevertheless, we were still able to enjoy the hike and ration our waters on our way to the top.


The road up to the Cinder Cone was not the most pleasant at first. With all the pictures we saw online before coming here we started to get disappointed. This part looked nothing like the pictures we saw online. With doubts in our minds, we decided to keep going. And after a while, the gravel road transitioned into something much more beautiful.



Once we reached the base of the hill we were pretty drained. We found a nice bench and an amazing view of the coast that was so clear we could see Maui. Here, we enjoyed our peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and took a few minutes to really take in the view. This view, although not at the top of the Cinder Cone, was debatably prettier since it included the coast.



After lunch, we continued on through the gate and onto the path that bared an uncanny resemblance to the landscape in Lord of The Rings. This hike had just changed from pretty to absolutely gorgeous in a matter of minutes. What once was gravel roads and yellowing green landscape was now a luscious wonderland of green. The air was cooler, the wind was stronger and our eyes were in for a treat.



After walking for a few minutes we came across a beautiful abandoned ranch with overgrown bushes around it that resembled some type of tomato plant. It was beautiful up here. You could really tell how old this area was and how well loved it had been.



Not long after passing the ranch, we began spotting the animals all around us. There were tons of cows, young and old, sheep that covered the hillside, goats that looked like they owned the place and plenty of birds filling the air with their sweet music. It was a lovely place to be.


The hike up the hill, although gorgeous, was not easy. We have been exercising more with quarantine but this took a lot out of us. Our legs were burning, and we were thirstier than ever. It was very clear we were going up in elevation as the air seemed less and less easy to breath. We thought again about turning back as we were both very tired. But with only a mile left to the top, we couldn't quit now.


Along the steep path upward, what seemed to be about every mile, was a little wooden bench to rest on if you so pleased. Resting on these benches for a minute or two really came in handy. And each one seemed to be placed strategically in front of a beautiful view.


By the time we reached the top of the hill, our legs were burning and I wanted to lie down. We were completely exhausted, but boy was it worth it. If I wasn't already completely out of breath, the view at the top would have taken it right out of me.



This view was beautiful. And there was of course, a bench at the top for you to rest. We stayed at this spot for much longer than I would have expected but I was too exhausted to move. After a much needed break we began our journey back down.



When we reached the gravel road again we unintentionally joined a new party. In front of us, two goats decided to jump on the road and lead us a majority of the way back to the trail head. They were nervous about us, thinking we were somehow following them, but we just happened to be heading in the same direction. It was adorable the way they kept looking back to see if we were still there. Eventually, they decided we weren't going to leave them alone and run away.


When we reached the car we were exhausted and extremely sweaty. This hike was amazing and absolutely beautiful, and although we weren't able to move for the next couple of days it was more than worth it.


Big Island Hawaii is absolutely breathtaking and the Pu'u Wa'awa'a hike is a great way to see how beautiful it truly is.



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